fall feasting
Filed Under Going Green, Stuff | October 5, 2009
What to make for dinner? It’s every mama’s daily dilemma. And no matter how many cookbooks we leaf through, they’re seldom truly inspiring. So when we cracked the cover of Earth to Table we were happily surprised to be truly and irrevocably hooked. We didn’t just flip through this new book from Canadian chef Jeff Crump and pastry chef, Bettina Schormann, we actually sat down and read it practically from cover to cover. It’s more than a cookbook, it’s our new favourite guide to eating locally and sustainably.
The book is divided into seasons and each season is interspersed with Bettina’s fascinating wheat story (seriously!), how to tips on foraging, preserving and more, as well as spotlights and profiles. In fact Earth to Table is so inspiring that we’re determined to make our own bread this winter. And trust us, that’s not something we’ve ever considered before. And we’ve sworn off tomatoes all winter long. Unless they’re the ones we’ve frozen from this summer’s bounty.
And to inspire you for your upcoming Thanksgiving feast this weekend, here’s a yummy recipe for Roasted Autumn Fruits with Torched Sabayon (don’t worry, the blow torch is optional). And also their recipe for White Truffle Risotto with Cauliflower. White truffles along with chocolate and fair-trade coffee are part of their list of “10 Things Worth the Food Miles”. Phew!
Roasted Autumn Fruits with Torched Sabayon
By Jeff Crump and Bettina Schormann, authors of Earth to Table
When you try this recipe, make sure your fruit pieces are all about the same size. This will allow you to roast it all at the same time. Also, when choosing apples and pears, look for firm green varieties. In the restaurant, we use a blowtorch to brown the sabayon. Try it at home! Blowtorches are available at many kitchen equipment stores.
Serves 6
Fruit
20 red or green grapes
3 large plums, cut into wedges
2 medium pears, cut into wedges
2 medium green apples (such as Granny Smith), cut into wedges
1⁄2 cup granulated sugar
1⁄2 cup melted unsalted butter
Sabayon
6 large egg yolks
3 tbsp granulated sugar
1⁄4 cup late harvest sweet wine
Prepare the fruit: Preheat oven to 400°F. On a baking sheet, combine grapes, plums, pears, apples, sugar and butter; toss to coat and spread out in a single layer. Bake until soft, about 15 minutes. Let cool.
Meanwhile, prepare the sabayon: In a large, stainless steel bowl, whisk together egg yolks and sugar. Set over a pot of simmering water (the bowl should not touch the water). Pour in wine and whisk vigorously to incorporate air until mixture has doubled in volume and is thick like whipped cream, about 10 minutes. You can use an electric mixer if it’s easier.
To assemble: Divide fruit among 6 dessert plates. Spoon sabayon over fruit. If desired, quickly wave a blowtorch over the surface to brown the sabayon.
White Truffle Risotto with Cauliflower
By Jeff Crump and Bettina Schormann, authors of Earth to Table
Make this dish when wild mushrooms become available at your local farmers’ market. The greater the variety of mushrooms, the more flavor your risotto will have— each mushroom adds its own complex flavor, aroma and color. In the restaurant, we use foraged wild mushrooms. While in Italy, I had the opportunity to purchase a beautiful Italian white truffle, so I jumped at it.
Serves 4
3⁄4 cup unsalted butter, divided
5 cups wild mushrooms (such as oyster or shiitake), thinly sliced
3 cups small cauliflower florets
2 shallots, finely diced
1⁄4 cup diced pancetta
11⁄2 cups Arborio rice
1 cup dry white wine
4 cups hot Chicken Stock (see recipe, page 297), divided
1 cup grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese
1 tbsp minced fresh flat-leaf (Italian) parsley
1 tsp minced fresh thyme
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
Shaved fresh white truffle (as much as you can afford), or 2 tsp white truffle oil
In a large skillet, melt 2 tbsp of the butter over medium-high heat. Add mushrooms, cauliflower, a pinch of salt and a splash of water; sauté until liquid is evaporated and mushrooms appear dry, about 15 minutes. Transfer mushroom mixture to a plate and set aside.
In the same skillet, melt 2 tbsp of the butter over medium heat. Add shallots and pancetta; sauté until shallots are softened, about 2 minutes. Stir in rice until well coated (do not let brown). Stir in wine and cook, stirring constantly, until liquid is absorbed. Stir in 1⁄2 cup stock and cook, stirring constantly, until stock is absorbed. Continue adding stock, 1 cup at a time, stirring constantly until absorbed before adding more. It will take about 20 minutes to incorporate all the liquid.
Stir in mushroom mixture and cook until vegetables are tender and rice is creamy, about 5 minutes. Stir in the remaining butter, cheese, parsley and thyme. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Let stand for 2 minutes.
Ladle risotto into warm bowls and garnish with shaved truffle or drizzle with truffle oil.
Earth to Table: www.chapters.indigo.ca
Excerpted from Earth to Table by Jeff Crump and Bettina Schormann Copyright © 2009 by Jeff Crump and Bettina Schormann. Photographs Copyright © 2009 by Edward Pond. Excerpted by permission of Random House Canada, a division of Random House of Canada Limited. All rights reserved. No part of this excerpt may be reproduced or reprinted without permission in writing from the publisher.
2 Responses to “fall feasting”
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Let us know what you think or share your great finds with us so we can share them with other Vancouver mothers!
Oh I heard these folks on the CBC and my interested was piqued. I’d love a good bread recipe for the fall/winter as I just got 20kg of flour through my grain CSA and need something to do to put it to use!
[...] getting more and more into eating locally (and healthily!) as our recent reviews of Earth to Table (seriously one of my favourite cookbooks ever, even though I appear to have lost my copy) and A [...]